7.4.3 Knitting
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For knitting, it is important that the yarn is flexible. These are generally rotor-spun staple fibres. Knitting with wet-spun yarn is difficult because the yarn is not sufficiently flexible. However, by softening the yarn and giving it the necessary treatments, it is possible to knit with wet-spun hemp yarn.
Important properties of yarn in knitting include yarn number, strength (Table below), elongation, coefficient of friction, irregularity, twist (Figure below), hairiness, stiffness and shrinkage.
Table: Specific tensile strength (cN/tex) for knitting yarn.
Fibre raw material | Weft knitting | Warp knitting |
Hemp (and flax) – long staple fibres | 17 – 18.5 | 19.5 – 23 |
Hemp (and flax) – short staple fibres | 10 – 12.5 | 13.5 - 17 |
Cotton – carded | 7 – 12 | 9 – 15 |
Cotton – combed | 11 – 15 | 14 - 22 |
Wool | 3 – 4.5 | 4 – 5.5 |
In knitting, we distinguish weft knitting (§7.4.3.1) and warp knitting (§7.4.3.2).
Knits made of hemp yarn are still hard to find; typical applications of knits are: T-shirts (weft knitting - circular), jumpers (weft knitting), mattress duck (warp knitting).
Suppliers of hemp knitting yarn
[1] Carl A. Lawrence, ‘Advances in Yarn Spinning Technology’, 2010 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles, https://www.sciencedirect.com/advances-in-spinning-technology
[2] Motiv, ‘Aankoopwegwijzer voor circulair textiel 1 – Module 3B: Doeken uit textile’, https://data.secureserver.be/databases/bedrijven.nsf/webopen/downloads/$file/GDCA3Bdoeken.pdf